Dordogne ExperienceWalking & Cycling in Southern France
Forested hills and valleys around Saint-Agrève, with distant peaks under summer cloudsPhoto: Havang(nl) / CC0 ← All walking holidays
Self-guided walking tour · 8 days

Ardèche Adventure

  • Lamastre (2 nights)
  • Lalouvesc
  • St Bonnet le Froid
  • St Agrève (2 nights)
  • Lamastre
Duration
8 days (7 nights)
Walking each day
13–23.2 km (8–14 miles)An optional walk on day 6 (14.6 km (9.1 miles))
Activity level
Challenging, with some strenuous stretchesHow hard is it?
Daily climb
Up to 1,070 m (about 3,500 ft)Measured from our GPX tracks
Start and finish
Circular from LamastreGetting there →
Owned and run by
Cassie at Dordogne Experience
Holiday style
Self-guided, inn to inn, with your luggage moved for youSelf-guided or guided? →
Season and start days
April–OctoberStart any day except Tuesday
Hotels
Hôtel des Négociants (Lamastre, 3 nights), Hôtel des Voyageurs (Lalouvesc), Auberge des Myrtilles (St Bonnet-le-Froid) and Le Bois Sauvage (St Agrève, 2 nights)
Meals
7 breakfasts, 7 dinnersBed & breakfast option on 3 nights
Location
Ardèche, France

Questions? See our FAQ →

Ardèche Adventure is an 8-day self-guided walking tour, circular from Lamastre, 13–23.2 km (8–14 miles) a day, from £985.

A walk through the quiet north of the Ardèche: high wooded hills with views to the Alps, villages more than 1,000 m (about 3,300 ft) up, and exceptional food along the way.

Facing the Alps across the Rhône valley, this is where the Ardèche, Loire and Haute-Loire meet: a country of hidden valleys, tumbling streams and old stone farmhouses that the guidebooks mostly pass by. From Lamastre you walk a loop, starting at nearby Le Crestet, up to Lalouvesc and St Agrève, both more than 1,000 m (about 3,300 ft) up, and back down to Lamastre.

This is our most challenging walk, with some strenuous stretches: about 13 to 23 km (8 to 14 miles) a day, including a long climb to Lalouvesc and a long descent on the final day, much of it on ancient paved paths. The rewards are big views, a picnic at one of the most beautiful picnic spots in France, a swim in the Lac de Devesset and a rest day at St Agrève.

You stay in characterful, often family-run hotels and seven dinners are included. On several nights you can swap dinner for bed and breakfast and eat at a Michelin-recommended restaurant instead, including in St Bonnet-le-Froid, a village known across France for its food. Your luggage is moved on for you each day, and you’ll have our detailed route notes and support throughout.

Cassie plans and looks after this holiday herself, from your first email to the day you head home.

Which part of the Ardèche?

Not the famous gorges in the south. This walk is in the green, hilly north of the département, close to where it meets the Loire and Haute-Loire.

A family business, owned and run by Cassie
  • Deal directly with Cassie
  • Your dates, your length
  • Cassie meets direct guests
  • Replies within 24 hours
What’s included →
Booking and cancelling
  • A 25% deposit secures your holiday. The balance is due 8 weeks before you travel (book within 8 weeks and the full price is due when you book).
  • Cancelling, in writing: more than 56 days before departure, 25% of the holiday price (your deposit); 56 to 29 days, 50%; 28 to 15 days, 70%; 14 days or less, 100%.
  • Prices are set in pounds, and you can pay in any currency you prefer.
Read the full Terms
Also available
  • 10-day route
  • 14-day route
  • Michelin-recommended restaurant upgrades
  • Hotel upgrades

Highlights

Views to the Alps

From the high ridges on clear days.

Lalouvesc

Hilltop village at 1,080 m (about 3,550 ft) with its basilica.

St Bonnet-le-Froid

A small village famous for its food, with a Michelin-recommended restaurant.

Lac de Devesset

Devesset Lake

A swim on the walk into St Agrève.

Ancient paths

Shaded old tracks, terraced orchards and stretches of original paving.

Off the guidebook trail

Quiet, wild country where goats and birdsong are often the only sounds.

Daily routeOptional walkSelect a route to jump to that day

Day by day

At a glance

The holiday at a glance: route, distance, climb and overnight for each day
DayRouteDistanceClimbOvernight
Day 1Arrival in Lamastre––Lamastre · Hôtel des Négociants
Day 2Le Crestet to Lamastre13.0 km (8.1 miles)↑ 380 m (about 1,250 ft) ↓ 460 m (about 1,500 ft)Lamastre · Hôtel des Négociants
Day 3Lamastre to Lalouvesc22.3 km (14 miles)↑ 1,070 m (about 3,500 ft) ↓ 360 m (about 1,200 ft)Lalouvesc · Hôtel des Voyageurs
Day 4Lalouvesc to St Bonnet-le-Froid19.7 km (12 miles)↑ 650 m (about 2,150 ft) ↓ 600 m (about 1,950 ft)St Bonnet-le-Froid · Auberge des Myrtilles
Day 5St Bonnet-le-Froid to St Agrève22.3 km (14 miles)↑ 260 m (about 850 ft) ↓ 320 m (about 1,050 ft)St Agrève · Le Bois Sauvage
Day 6Rest day in St AgrèveOptional 14.6 km (9.1 miles)↑ 190 m (about 600 ft) ↓ 660 m (about 2,150 ft)St Agrève · Le Bois Sauvage
Day 7St Agrève to Lamastre23.2 km (14 miles)↑ 210 m (about 700 ft) ↓ 870 m (about 2,850 ft)Lamastre · Hôtel des Négociants
Day 8Departure–––

Climbs shown where we’ve measured the route.

Day 1

Arrival in Lamastre

Arrive in Lamastre, a small town with ivy-clad château ruins and a bustling traditional market.

Tonight: Hôtel des Négociants ↗Dinner included
The ruined Château de Retourtour above LamastrePhoto: Charcutaille / CC BY-SA 3.0
The ruined Château de Retourtour above Lamastre
Day 2

Le Crestet to Lamastre 13.0 km (8.1 miles)Climb 380 m (about 1,250 ft), descent 460 m (about 1,500 ft)

A taxi picks you up at 9am and takes you to Le Crestet to start the walk; it’s included. Le Crestet is a small village surrounded by woodland, looking out over the valley of the river Doux. An ancient shaded path climbs past terraced orchards to far-reaching views, before you drop back down into Lamastre.

Tonight: Hôtel des Négociants ↗Dinner included
Le Crestet, seen from the hill of the Trois CroixPhoto: FredSeiller / CC BY-SA 4.0
Le Crestet, seen from the hill of the Trois Croix
Day 3

Lamastre to Lalouvesc 22.3 km (14 miles)Climb 1,070 m (about 3,500 ft), descent 360 m (about 1,200 ft)

The big climb of the week. It’s mostly uphill, but there are superb viewpoints all the way and, on a clear day, the Alps on the horizon. After a final steep pull you follow a ridge into Lalouvesc, 1,080 m (about 3,550 ft) up.

Tonight: Hôtel des Voyageurs ↗Dinner included
Lalouvesc’s public garden, with the basilica behindPhoto: François Bassaget / CC BY-SA 4.0
Lalouvesc’s public garden, with the basilica behind
Day 4

Lalouvesc to St Bonnet-le-Froid 19.7 km (12 miles)Climb 650 m (about 2,150 ft), descent 600 m (about 1,950 ft)

A day through woodland. Buy a picnic in Lalouvesc before you set off, because lunch today is at one of the most beautiful picnic spots in France. St Bonnet-le-Froid has a highly regarded Michelin-recommended restaurant, so you can choose bed and breakfast tonight, or upgrade your hotel too. Your own hotel, the Auberge des Myrtilles, is a restored farmhouse just outside the village.

Tonight: Auberge des Myrtilles ↗Dinner included (bed & breakfast option)
St Bonnet-le-Froid, looking towards the village centrePhoto: AirScott / CC BY-SA 4.0
St Bonnet-le-Froid, looking towards the village centre
Day 5

St Bonnet-le-Froid to St Agrève 22.3 km (14 miles)Climb 260 m (about 850 ft), descent 320 m (about 1,050 ft)

Rolling countryside again, but more open, with the chance of a swim in the beautiful Lac de Devesset. You arrive in St Agrève, 1,050 m (about 3,450 ft) up, with exceptional views on a clear day.

Tonight: Le Bois SauvageDinner included
Day 6

Rest day in St Agrève Optional 14.6 km (9.1 miles)Climb 190 m (about 600 ft), descent 660 m (about 2,150 ft)

A free day. If you’d like to stretch your legs, there’s an optional walk from St Agrève down to St Martin-de-Valamas. A taxi meets you at St Martin-de-Valamas at 4pm and takes you back; it’s included. Tonight you can choose bed and breakfast and eat at the Michelin-recommended restaurant at the Hôtel Faurie.

Tonight: Le Bois SauvageDinner included (bed & breakfast option)
The view from Mont Chiniac, above St AgrèvePhoto: Urbain2 / CC BY-SA 3.0
The view from Mont Chiniac, above St Agrève
Day 7

St Agrève to Lamastre 23.2 km (14 miles)Climb 210 m (about 700 ft), descent 870 m (about 2,850 ft)

A downhill day from St Agrève (1,050 m, about 3,450 ft) to Lamastre (366 m, about 1,200 ft), much of it on an ancient path where the old paving still shows in places. There’s another chance tonight to switch to bed and breakfast and try the Michelin-recommended Restaurant Le Midi.

Tonight: Hôtel des Négociants ↗Dinner included (bed & breakfast option)
The ivy-clad walls of the Château de Retourtour, LamastrePhoto: Charcutaille / CC BY-SA 3.0
The ivy-clad walls of the Château de Retourtour, Lamastre
Day 8

Departure

Your holiday ends after breakfast.

2027 prices

2027 prices in pounds sterling, by holiday length
8 days (7 nights)
Per person, sharing a double or twin£985
Single room supplement+£265
Travelling solo (on top of the per-person price)+£450
8 days (7 nights)

Per person, sharing a double or twin£985

Single room supplement+£265

Travelling solo (on top of the per-person price)+£450

What’s included

Included

  • 7 nights’ accommodation, sharing a double or twin room
  • 7 breakfasts and 7 dinners
  • The taxi from Lamastre to Le Crestet on day 2
  • The taxi back from St Martin-de-Valamas to St Agrève after the optional day 6 walk
  • Your luggage moved on each time you change hotel
  • Our detailed route notes and maps
  • GPX files by email, with simple instructions for using them on your phone
  • Support by phone and WhatsApp throughout your holiday

Not included

  • Travel to and from Lamastre
  • Lunches and drinks
  • Entrance fees (châteaux, caves, gardens and museums)
  • Travel insurance (we strongly recommend it)
  • Personal expenses

Practical information

Getting there and away

By air. Lyon Saint-Exupéry is the nearest major airport, with TGV trains from the airport station to Valence in about 40 minutes.

From further afield. From Australia, the USA and further afield, most long-haul flights land at Paris Charles de Gaulle, where TGV trains leave from the airport station for Valence; or connect to Lyon Saint-Exupéry.

By train. Take the TGV to Valence, then it’s under an hour by taxi to Lamastre. Regional trains also run to Tain-l’Hermitage–Tournon, across the Rhône from Tournon, where a few buses a day head up the valley to Lamastre.

By car. Calais to Lamastre is around 900 km (559 miles), roughly 9 hours’ driving.

Going home. The walk ends in Lamastre after breakfast on day 8, under an hour by taxi from Valence. We can arrange the taxi for you.

Day 6. If you do the optional walk to St Martin-de-Valamas, a taxi meets you there at 4pm and takes you back to St Agrève; it’s included.

Day 2. A taxi picks you up at 9am and takes you to Le Crestet to start the walk; it’s included.

Route finding

Our detailed route notes and maps come in digital form, so you always know where the next turn is.

We also email you GPX files, with simple instructions for using them on your phone, so you can see exactly where you are on the map.

It varies by route. Some sections are waymarked, and your route notes tell you where. The notes and GPS guide you the rest of the way.

Bring a smartphone with mobile data and a power bank. If you take a wrong turn, the GPX track shows you the way back, and we’re a call or WhatsApp away.

Our family walked this route when we created it, and it was re-walked and its GPS tracks updated in recent years, so our route notes are tried and tested.

Meals and dietary needs

Included: 7 breakfasts and 7 dinners. The day-by-day shows which nights include dinner. On 3 nights you can swap dinner for bed and breakfast.

Shops and cafés are few and far between on the high plateau, so buy picnic food where the day-by-day suggests, such as in Lalouvesc on day 4.

Some hotels can make you a packed lunch; details are in your route notes.

Breakfast is usually French-style: fresh bread and croissants with butter and jam, and coffee, tea or hot chocolate. Some hotels add yoghurt, fruit or cheese.

Lunch is up to you, and it’s one of the pleasures of the day: pick up a picnic from a village bakery or market, or stop at a café along the way. On some days there are few shops on the route, so it’s worth buying lunch before you set off.

Tell us about any dietary needs when you book and we’ll let every hotel know. Vegetarian meals are no problem. Other needs, such as gluten-free food or a serious allergy, are harder for small country kitchens, so please talk to Cassie before you book, and always carry any medication you need.

Drinks aren’t included: anything you enjoy with dinner is simply settled with the hotel before you leave.

Your luggage

Whenever you change hotel, your bags are taken on for you, so they’re waiting when you arrive. Please have them ready at reception by 9am.

During the day you only need a daypack: water, snacks, a waterproof, sun cream and a hat, plus anything you’ll want before evening, such as medication.

Many of our hotels are in old buildings and some have no lift, so expect the odd flight of stairs with your bags.

One bag per person, up to 20 kg.

Hotels and check-in

Rooms are usually ready from mid-afternoon, and check-out is usually by 10 or 11am. If you arrive early, the hotel will normally look after your bags while you explore.

Most rooms have a shower rather than a bath, as is usual in French country hotels.

The day-by-day above lists your hotels night by night, and we’ll send you full details with your booking confirmation.

Weather and when to go

Our season runs from April to October.

The route climbs to over 1,000 m (about 3,300 ft), so it’s noticeably cooler than the river valleys, and evenings can be fresh even in summer: pack a warm layer.

May and June are lovely, with long days and meadows full of wildflowers; September brings clear, crisp days.

Weather changes quickly in the hills, so carry a waterproof every day, and in July and August be ready for afternoon thunderstorms.

Language

French is the language of the route. Most hotels speak some English, but in small villages, shops and cafés you’ll often find they don’t.

A few words go a long way and are always appreciated: bonjour as you walk into a shop, merci, and l’addition, s’il vous plaît when you’d like the bill.

Questions about this holiday

How far do I walk each day?

Between 13 and 23.2 km (8 to 14 miles) on the walking days, with an optional walk on day 6 (14.6 km (9.1 miles)). The day-by-day above gives each day’s distance.

How fit do I need to be?

The level is challenging, with some strenuous stretches. If you enjoy a good day’s walking, you’ll be fine. If a day turns out to be too much, call us and we’ll arrange a taxi to your next hotel (you pay the fare locally).

Where does it start and finish?

Ardèche Adventure is a circular route: it starts and finishes in Lamastre. For travel there, see How do I get there? in our FAQ.

Is this an inn-to-inn holiday?

Yes, Ardèche Adventure is an inn-to-inn holiday. You walk from one hotel to the next, on a circular route, and your luggage is moved on for you, so it’s waiting when you arrive and you only need a daypack. See What is an inn-to-inn holiday? in our FAQ.

Which meals are included?

7 breakfasts and 7 dinners. The day-by-day above shows which nights include dinner; on the other nights you choose where to eat. On 3 nights you can swap dinner for bed and breakfast. Lunches and drinks aren’t included.

Can I add nights or change the dates?

Yes, you can add nights or change the dates on Ardèche Adventure. You can start any day except Tuesday, from April to October, and dates, distances and extra nights can be adjusted to suit you. Also available: 10-day route, 14-day route, Michelin-recommended restaurant upgrades and hotel upgrades.

Can I travel solo?

Yes, solo walkers are very welcome on Ardèche Adventure. As the costs aren’t shared, travelling solo is +£450 on top of the per-person price. See all prices.

More answers in our FAQ →

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