Views to the Alps
From the high ridges on clear days.

Ardèche Adventure is an 8-day self-guided walking tour, circular from Lamastre, 13–23.2 km (8–14 miles) a day, from £985.
A walk through the quiet north of the Ardèche: high wooded hills with views to the Alps, villages more than 1,000 m (about 3,300 ft) up, and exceptional food along the way.
Facing the Alps across the Rhône valley, this is where the Ardèche, Loire and Haute-Loire meet: a country of hidden valleys, tumbling streams and old stone farmhouses that the guidebooks mostly pass by. From Lamastre you walk a loop, starting at nearby Le Crestet, up to Lalouvesc and St Agrève, both more than 1,000 m (about 3,300 ft) up, and back down to Lamastre.
This is our most challenging walk, with some strenuous stretches: about 13 to 23 km (8 to 14 miles) a day, including a long climb to Lalouvesc and a long descent on the final day, much of it on ancient paved paths. The rewards are big views, a picnic at one of the most beautiful picnic spots in France, a swim in the Lac de Devesset and a rest day at St Agrève.
You stay in characterful, often family-run hotels and seven dinners are included. On several nights you can swap dinner for bed and breakfast and eat at a Michelin-recommended restaurant instead, including in St Bonnet-le-Froid, a village known across France for its food. Your luggage is moved on for you each day, and you’ll have our detailed route notes and support throughout.
Cassie plans and looks after this holiday herself, from your first email to the day you head home.
Not the famous gorges in the south. This walk is in the green, hilly north of the département, close to where it meets the Loire and Haute-Loire.
From the high ridges on clear days.
Hilltop village at 1,080 m (about 3,550 ft) with its basilica.
A small village famous for its food, with a Michelin-recommended restaurant.
A swim on the walk into St Agrève.
Shaded old tracks, terraced orchards and stretches of original paving.
Quiet, wild country where goats and birdsong are often the only sounds.
| Day | Route | Distance | Climb | Overnight |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1 | Arrival in Lamastre | – | – | Lamastre · Hôtel des Négociants |
| Day 2 | Le Crestet to Lamastre | 13.0 km (8.1 miles) | ↑ 380 m (about 1,250 ft) ↓ 460 m (about 1,500 ft) | Lamastre · Hôtel des Négociants |
| Day 3 | Lamastre to Lalouvesc | 22.3 km (14 miles) | ↑ 1,070 m (about 3,500 ft) ↓ 360 m (about 1,200 ft) | Lalouvesc · Hôtel des Voyageurs |
| Day 4 | Lalouvesc to St Bonnet-le-Froid | 19.7 km (12 miles) | ↑ 650 m (about 2,150 ft) ↓ 600 m (about 1,950 ft) | St Bonnet-le-Froid · Auberge des Myrtilles |
| Day 5 | St Bonnet-le-Froid to St Agrève | 22.3 km (14 miles) | ↑ 260 m (about 850 ft) ↓ 320 m (about 1,050 ft) | St Agrève · Le Bois Sauvage |
| Day 6 | Rest day in St Agrève | Optional 14.6 km (9.1 miles) | ↑ 190 m (about 600 ft) ↓ 660 m (about 2,150 ft) | St Agrève · Le Bois Sauvage |
| Day 7 | St Agrève to Lamastre | 23.2 km (14 miles) | ↑ 210 m (about 700 ft) ↓ 870 m (about 2,850 ft) | Lamastre · Hôtel des Négociants |
| Day 8 | Departure | – | – | – |
Climbs shown where we’ve measured the route.
Arrive in Lamastre, a small town with ivy-clad château ruins and a bustling traditional market.
Tonight: Hôtel des Négociants ↗Dinner included
A taxi picks you up at 9am and takes you to Le Crestet to start the walk; it’s included. Le Crestet is a small village surrounded by woodland, looking out over the valley of the river Doux. An ancient shaded path climbs past terraced orchards to far-reaching views, before you drop back down into Lamastre.
Tonight: Hôtel des Négociants ↗Dinner included
The big climb of the week. It’s mostly uphill, but there are superb viewpoints all the way and, on a clear day, the Alps on the horizon. After a final steep pull you follow a ridge into Lalouvesc, 1,080 m (about 3,550 ft) up.
Tonight: Hôtel des Voyageurs ↗Dinner included
A day through woodland. Buy a picnic in Lalouvesc before you set off, because lunch today is at one of the most beautiful picnic spots in France. St Bonnet-le-Froid has a highly regarded Michelin-recommended restaurant, so you can choose bed and breakfast tonight, or upgrade your hotel too. Your own hotel, the Auberge des Myrtilles, is a restored farmhouse just outside the village.
Tonight: Auberge des Myrtilles ↗Dinner included (bed & breakfast option)
Rolling countryside again, but more open, with the chance of a swim in the beautiful Lac de Devesset. You arrive in St Agrève, 1,050 m (about 3,450 ft) up, with exceptional views on a clear day.
Tonight: Le Bois SauvageDinner includedA free day. If you’d like to stretch your legs, there’s an optional walk from St Agrève down to St Martin-de-Valamas. A taxi meets you at St Martin-de-Valamas at 4pm and takes you back; it’s included. Tonight you can choose bed and breakfast and eat at the Michelin-recommended restaurant at the Hôtel Faurie.
Tonight: Le Bois SauvageDinner included (bed & breakfast option)
A downhill day from St Agrève (1,050 m, about 3,450 ft) to Lamastre (366 m, about 1,200 ft), much of it on an ancient path where the old paving still shows in places. There’s another chance tonight to switch to bed and breakfast and try the Michelin-recommended Restaurant Le Midi.
Tonight: Hôtel des Négociants ↗Dinner included (bed & breakfast option)
Your holiday ends after breakfast.
| 8 days (7 nights) | |
|---|---|
| Per person, sharing a double or twin | £985 |
| Single room supplement | +£265 |
| Travelling solo (on top of the per-person price) | +£450 |
Per person, sharing a double or twin£985
Single room supplement+£265
Travelling solo (on top of the per-person price)+£450
By air. Lyon Saint-Exupéry is the nearest major airport, with TGV trains from the airport station to Valence in about 40 minutes.
From further afield. From Australia, the USA and further afield, most long-haul flights land at Paris Charles de Gaulle, where TGV trains leave from the airport station for Valence; or connect to Lyon Saint-Exupéry.
By train. Take the TGV to Valence, then it’s under an hour by taxi to Lamastre. Regional trains also run to Tain-l’Hermitage–Tournon, across the Rhône from Tournon, where a few buses a day head up the valley to Lamastre.
By car. Calais to Lamastre is around 900 km (559 miles), roughly 9 hours’ driving.
Going home. The walk ends in Lamastre after breakfast on day 8, under an hour by taxi from Valence. We can arrange the taxi for you.
Day 6. If you do the optional walk to St Martin-de-Valamas, a taxi meets you there at 4pm and takes you back to St Agrève; it’s included.
Day 2. A taxi picks you up at 9am and takes you to Le Crestet to start the walk; it’s included.
Our detailed route notes and maps come in digital form, so you always know where the next turn is.
We also email you GPX files, with simple instructions for using them on your phone, so you can see exactly where you are on the map.
It varies by route. Some sections are waymarked, and your route notes tell you where. The notes and GPS guide you the rest of the way.
Bring a smartphone with mobile data and a power bank. If you take a wrong turn, the GPX track shows you the way back, and we’re a call or WhatsApp away.
Our family walked this route when we created it, and it was re-walked and its GPS tracks updated in recent years, so our route notes are tried and tested.
Included: 7 breakfasts and 7 dinners. The day-by-day shows which nights include dinner. On 3 nights you can swap dinner for bed and breakfast.
Shops and cafés are few and far between on the high plateau, so buy picnic food where the day-by-day suggests, such as in Lalouvesc on day 4.
Some hotels can make you a packed lunch; details are in your route notes.
Breakfast is usually French-style: fresh bread and croissants with butter and jam, and coffee, tea or hot chocolate. Some hotels add yoghurt, fruit or cheese.
Lunch is up to you, and it’s one of the pleasures of the day: pick up a picnic from a village bakery or market, or stop at a café along the way. On some days there are few shops on the route, so it’s worth buying lunch before you set off.
Tell us about any dietary needs when you book and we’ll let every hotel know. Vegetarian meals are no problem. Other needs, such as gluten-free food or a serious allergy, are harder for small country kitchens, so please talk to Cassie before you book, and always carry any medication you need.
Drinks aren’t included: anything you enjoy with dinner is simply settled with the hotel before you leave.
Whenever you change hotel, your bags are taken on for you, so they’re waiting when you arrive. Please have them ready at reception by 9am.
During the day you only need a daypack: water, snacks, a waterproof, sun cream and a hat, plus anything you’ll want before evening, such as medication.
Many of our hotels are in old buildings and some have no lift, so expect the odd flight of stairs with your bags.
One bag per person, up to 20 kg.
Rooms are usually ready from mid-afternoon, and check-out is usually by 10 or 11am. If you arrive early, the hotel will normally look after your bags while you explore.
Most rooms have a shower rather than a bath, as is usual in French country hotels.
The day-by-day above lists your hotels night by night, and we’ll send you full details with your booking confirmation.
Our season runs from April to October.
The route climbs to over 1,000 m (about 3,300 ft), so it’s noticeably cooler than the river valleys, and evenings can be fresh even in summer: pack a warm layer.
May and June are lovely, with long days and meadows full of wildflowers; September brings clear, crisp days.
Weather changes quickly in the hills, so carry a waterproof every day, and in July and August be ready for afternoon thunderstorms.
French is the language of the route. Most hotels speak some English, but in small villages, shops and cafés you’ll often find they don’t.
A few words go a long way and are always appreciated: bonjour as you walk into a shop, merci, and l’addition, s’il vous plaît when you’d like the bill.
Between 13 and 23.2 km (8 to 14 miles) on the walking days, with an optional walk on day 6 (14.6 km (9.1 miles)). The day-by-day above gives each day’s distance.
The level is challenging, with some strenuous stretches. If you enjoy a good day’s walking, you’ll be fine. If a day turns out to be too much, call us and we’ll arrange a taxi to your next hotel (you pay the fare locally).
Ardèche Adventure is a circular route: it starts and finishes in Lamastre. For travel there, see How do I get there? in our FAQ.
Yes, Ardèche Adventure is an inn-to-inn holiday. You walk from one hotel to the next, on a circular route, and your luggage is moved on for you, so it’s waiting when you arrive and you only need a daypack. See What is an inn-to-inn holiday? in our FAQ.
7 breakfasts and 7 dinners. The day-by-day above shows which nights include dinner; on the other nights you choose where to eat. On 3 nights you can swap dinner for bed and breakfast. Lunches and drinks aren’t included.
Yes, you can add nights or change the dates on Ardèche Adventure. You can start any day except Tuesday, from April to October, and dates, distances and extra nights can be adjusted to suit you. Also available: 10-day route, 14-day route, Michelin-recommended restaurant upgrades and hotel upgrades.
Yes, solo walkers are very welcome on Ardèche Adventure. As the costs aren’t shared, travelling solo is +£450 on top of the per-person price. See all prices.
A Gourmet Journey
6 days · from £950 per person, sharing a double/twin room
8 days · from £995 per person, sharing a double/twin room
8 days · from £965 per person, sharing a double/twin room
8 days · from £975 per person, sharing a double/twin room
Last updated