Dordogne ExperienceWalking & Cycling in Southern France
Guide

Why visit the Dordogne?

Is the Dordogne worth visiting? Yes. In a small area you’ll find golden-stone villages beneath clifftop castles, prehistoric caves, a slow green river and the food the Périgord is known for. Here’s what makes it special, and how to see it.

By Cassie ·

Villages that look the part

Many of the villages here are members of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, the association of France’s most beautiful villages: Beynac and Castelnaud facing each other across the river, Domme on its clifftop, La Roque-Gageac tucked beneath its cliff, Collonges-la-Rouge built entirely of red sandstone, and hilltop Turenne and Curemonte.

Our guide to the most beautiful villages in the Dordogne describes each one, and which of our holidays visits it.

A turreted stone mansion in Sarlat’s old town
A turreted stone mansion in Sarlat’s old town

Castles on every skyline

The river was once a frontier, and the castles show it: Beynac and Castelnaud on their cliffs, the Château de Montfort above a bend in the river, the rediscovered Château de Commarque in the woods, and the red Château de Castelnau further up the valley.

The red Château de Castelnau across the valley
The red Château de Castelnau across the valley

Prehistory you can walk into

The Vézère valley’s prehistoric sites and decorated caves have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. In Les Eyzies, tucked beneath limestone cliffs, Cro-Magnon people lived some 15,000 years ago, and the National Museum of Prehistory tells their story.

Stone houses built into a rock overhang near Les Eyzies
Stone houses built into a rock overhang near Les Eyzies

A place of pilgrimage

Rocamadour has been a major pilgrimage site since the Middle Ages. Rocamadour’s Basilica of Saint-Sauveur and the Crypt of Saint-Amadour are part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing “Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France”, and its houses and sanctuaries cling to the cliff above the Alzou gorge.

Rocamadour on its cliff, seen across the wooded valley
Rocamadour on its cliff, seen across the wooded valley

The river and the valleys

The Dordogne river and its tributaries wind through limestone valleys, past riverside villages such as Carennac and Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, with quiet lanes, woodland paths and riverside cycle paths between them. Further east, the Lot brings Rocamadour, stacked up its cliff above the Alzou gorge.

Kev and Cassie, out on the river
Kev and Cassie, out on the river

Food and markets

The Périgord is known for its food: walnuts, truffles, duck and the local cheeses and wines. Market days are an event: Sarlat’s big market fills the old town on Saturdays, with a smaller one on Wednesday mornings, Domme’s is on Thursday mornings and Souillac’s on Friday mornings.

A pan-fried fish fillet topped with purple potato crisps and rocket
A pan-fried fish fillet topped with purple potato crisps and rocket

When to go

The season for walking and cycling runs from April to October, and May and September are the months our guests choose most. Our month-by-month guide has more.

Kev on the Dordogne, below Castelnaud
Kev on the Dordogne, below Castelnaud

Getting there

It’s easier to reach than it looks. Most long-haul flights land at Paris Charles de Gaulle, with connecting flights to Bordeaux or Toulouse, and Bergerac and Brive have smaller airports. By train, Paris Austerlitz to Brive-la-Gaillarde takes about 4½ to 5 hours. Our Getting there page has the details for the start of every holiday.

Kev and Cassie on the terrace at Hôtel Le Périgord
Kev and Cassie on the terrace at Hôtel Le Périgord

How to see it

On foot or by bike, from one village to the next, with your luggage moved for you: see our walking holidays and cycling holidays. For castles and caves, try Castles & Caves of the Dordogne; for the villages, France’s Most Beautiful Villages; by bike, Cycling in the Dordogne. And for the places Cassie loves most, read her hidden gems of the Dordogne.

Two cyclists far along a narrow, quiet lane lined with trees and a green verge
Two cyclists far along a narrow, quiet lane lined with trees and a green verge

More to read

Plan your visit

Tell us when you’d like to travel and how you like to walk or ride. We reply within 24 hours, usually much sooner.

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